What is Soap Made Of? Chemistry & Process

What is Soap Made Of? Chemistry & Process

Apr 04, 2025

Soap has been around for thousands of years, and for most of that time, it was simple: oil, water, and maybe some herbs or ash. It got the job done. 

But over the last century, things changed. Big brands figured out how to cut costs and stretch shelf life, swapping real soap ingredients for synthetic detergents, fake scents, and toxins no one asked for. And so, the old-school soap bar got a makeover, not necessarily for the better.

Today, walk down a store aisle and you'll see “beauty bars,” “moisturizing cleansers,” and “soap-free washes.” But what are they made of? That’s where things get…murky. 

Because, if we’re real, the term “soap” is used loosely nowadays. And most people have no idea what’s in the bar they use every day, or what their skin is absorbing.

Worry not, this guide is here to clear things up. We’re going to break down what soap is actually made of, the process behind creating soap, and how different soaps compare. 

We'll also share why clean soaps, and their specific ingredients, can offer something most commercial bars can't.

A Brief History of Soap: Then vs. Now

Soap has been around for thousands of years, and while the ingredients and processes have evolved, the purpose has remained beautifully simple: to get clean. But not all eras of soap are created equal, and understanding its history helps explain how we got from handcrafted bars to the synthetic “soap-like” products lining most drugstore shelves today.

From Ashes and Animal Fat to Olive Oil Artistry


Photo Source -> Mills College

The earliest soaps were rustic, effective, and surprisingly natural. Ancient Babylonians as early as 2800 BCE mixed animal fats with wood ash and water to create primitive soap. The Romans improved upon the method, using it for both bathing and treating skin diseases. 

By the 8th century, Arabic soapmakers in Aleppo were crafting luxurious bars with olive oil and laurel oil—an early form of what would become known as Castile soap.

During the Middle Ages, soap became more refined. France led the charge with what we now call triple-milled or French-milled soap. This process involved grinding the soap multiple times for a smoother, denser, longer-lasting bar. These artisanal soaps were rich in oils like olive and coconut, gentle on the skin, and naturally fragrant.

The Shift to Synthetic: Where It Went Sideways

In the 20th century, mass production, cost-cutting, and shelf-life concerns led to the rise of commercial "soap" bars. 

And here’s the catch: many of these products aren’t soap at all. They’re detergents, made from petroleum-based surfactants, artificial preservatives, and synthetic fragrances. That’s why brands like Dove and Ivory don’t call their products “soap”—you’ll often see the words “beauty bar” or “cleansing bar” instead.

The sad truth is, that synthetic bars often dehydrate the skin, disrupt its pH balance, and contain toxins you wouldn’t look at twice, let alone rub on your skin. 

💡 Quick Fact: Many hotel soaps and drugstore bars are not legally classified as soap—they're detergents. That’s why they’re labeled as “cleansing bars,” not real soap.

Why Real Soap is Losing Popularity

The truth is, that people want healthy, nourishing soap, but they’re overwhelmed by misleading labels, buzzwords, and products that prioritize marketing over skin wellness.

So how did we get here?

The Rise of Cheap “Soap-Like” Alternatives

Real soap, made from oils, water, and lye, is actually more expensive to produce than synthetic detergents. So when big brands figured out they could mimic the look and feel of soap with cheaper, lab-made surfactants and fillers, they ran with it. These “cleansing bars” and “beauty bars” often contain very little actual soap.

What they do include?

Ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate, synthetic fragrances, and alcohols that dry out or irritate skin over time.

They’re mass-produced, wrapped in plastic, and often sold in packs of 6 for the cost of a single artisan bar. And in a world of convenience and cost-cutting, many folks never stop to ask: what am I actually putting on my skin?

“Lye-Free” Marketing Gimmicks

Here’s what I hear all the time: “Why do some soaps say ‘lye-free’ if lye is necessary to make soap?” And the answer? Marketing spin.

Lye (sodium or potassium hydroxide) is essential to the soapmaking process—it’s what converts fats into soap through saponification. But a properly formulated bar contains zero lye once the chemical reaction is complete. Claiming “lye-free” just capitalizes on fear, not facts.

Similarly, “soap-free” products are often made with synthetic detergents. They might be labeled as pH-balanced, but they’re technically not soap at all. This terminology leaves consumers confused and misinformed, leading to poor skincare choices. 


Types of Soap & Their Ingredients: What You’re Really Using

Not all soap is created equal—and some of it isn’t even soap. Let’s take a look at the most common types of soap (and soap-like products) and what actually goes into them. Spoiler: not everything is skin-friendly.

Regular Bar Soap


What’s in it

Saponified oils (olive, coconut, castor, shea, etc.)

Glycerin (natural byproduct, often retained in handmade bars)

Optional: essential oils, clays, natural exfoliants

What to watch

Commercial bars often remove glycerin

 May include synthetic fragrances or preservatives

Verdict

Only beneficial and works as real soap when made traditionally. 

Liquid Soap


What’s in it

Saponified oils + potassium hydroxide

Water

Preservatives (due to water content)

Thickeners, stabilizers, and sometimes synthetic scent

What to watch

Preservatives like phenoxyethanol or sodium benzoate

Added surfactants for more foam

Verdict

Functional but more processed. Check for clean formulations.

Castile Soap


What’s in it

100% olive oil (sometimes mixed with other oils)

Water

Lye (sodium or potassium hydroxide)

May include essential oils

What to watch

Real Castile = only olive oil

Many commercial “Castiles” use cheaper oil blends

Verdict

Extremely gentle and moisturizing—if authentic.

Dove & Syndet Bars


What’s in it

Synthetic surfactants (e.g., sodium lauroyl isethionate) 

Petroleum-based emollients

Fragrance, stabilizers, binders

What to watch

High potential for residue buildup

Not legally or chemically soap

Verdict

Mild for some skin, but synthetic and far from clean.

Hotel Soap


What’s in it

Tallow or palm-based base

Synthetic fragrance

Fillers and preservatives

What to watch

Often very drying

Low-grade and meant for short-term use

Verdict

Cheap and disposable—best left in the hotel room.


Dish Soap (Used on Skin)

What’s in it

Synthetic degreasers

Strong surfactants like SLS

Preservatives, fragrance

What to watch

Harsh enough to strip protective skin oils

Not made for human skin

Verdict

Works wonders on dishes—damaging for the skin.

How Soap is Made: Cold Process vs. Hot Process vs. Triple-Milled

Soap isn’t just about ingredients—how it’s made can affect everything from its skin benefits to how long it lasts. At Legend’s Creek Farm, we’ve worked with all three major methods, and each one serves a purpose depending on the end result you're after.

Cold Process

This is the gold standard for handcrafted, nutrient-rich soap.

  • Gentler on nutrients: Cold process preserves delicate ingredients like goat milk, essential oils, and herbal infusions because it doesn’t involve high heat. That means the skin-loving properties stay intact.

  • Long curing time: These bars cure for 4–6 weeks, allowing water to slowly evaporate. The result? A harder, longer-lasting bar that won’t melt away in a week.

Cold process is ideal for customers with sensitive skin or anyone looking for a more nourishing, thoughtfully crafted bar.

Hot Process

A faster method that uses heat to accelerate saponification.

  • Rustic texture: The heat “cooks” the soap, creating a more rugged, handmade appearance. You’ll often see texture or color variations on the surface.

  • Still retains benefits: Despite the heat, many beneficial ingredients like shea butter, honey, and clays still survive the process. It’s a great option for people who want a ready-to-use bar sooner.

Hot process soaps are typically ready to use in just a few days, which is why some small-batch makers prefer it.

Triple-Milled (French-Milled)

This method doesn’t change the chemistry of soap—it refines it.

  • Ground 3x: The soap is passed through stainless steel rollers multiple times, breaking it down and pressing it into a dense, uniform bar.

  • Luxury feel: Triple-milled bars are smooth, solid, and often used in high-end or luxury soap lines.

  • Less moisture = 4x longer use: Because almost all water is removed, triple-milled soap doesn’t dissolve quickly. It lasts much longer than standard cold or hot process bars.

What Makes a Soap “Clean” or “Dirty”?

In the skincare world, “clean” is a word that gets tossed around a lot—but when it comes to soap, clean isn’t just about how it smells or foams. It’s about how it’s made, what’s inside, and how it treats your skin and the environment. Here's how to tell if you're getting the real deal—or a chemical cocktail disguised as something gentle.

The Good Soap Checklist

If you’re after a bar that’s safe for your body, planet, and conscience, look for these must-haves:

  • Natural Oils & Butters. Ingredients like olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter, and castor oil form the base of real soap. They cleanse, condition, and naturally break down without harming ecosystems.

  • Sustainable, Cruelty-Free Sourcing. Reputable brands will show you exactly where their ingredients come from, and back it up with cruelty-free certifications.

  • No Artificial Preservatives or Synthetic Dyes. Handmade bar soaps don’t need preservatives due to their high pH. Colorants should come from natural sources like clays or botanicals—not petroleum-based dyes that can irritate skin.

  • Transparent Labeling. You should never need a chemistry degree to understand what’s in your soap. Look for ingredient lists that use plain language and fully disclose sources—even for fragrances or essential oils.

Bad Soap Warning Signs

Some bars may look pretty or smell great—but that doesn’t mean they’re good for your skin.

  • “Fragrance” Without Full Disclosure. If a label just says “fragrance,” that could mean anything. U.S. regulations allow companies to hide dozens of chemical compounds behind that one word, including known allergens and hormone disruptors.

  • Overuse of Alcohols, Sulfates, and Parabens. These ingredients are added to extend shelf life, boost lather, or preserve texture—but they can dry out, strip, and irritate your skin. Look out for sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), alcohol denat, and methylparaben near the top of the list.

  • No Mention of Superfatting or Glycerin. If a soap brand doesn’t talk about retaining glycerin or “superfatting” (adding extra oils), chances are they don’t do it. That often results in a bar that cleans—but doesn’t care for your skin.

Why does ordinary soap make me itch?

Ordinary soap often contains harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate, synthetic fragrance compounds, and alcohols that strip the skin’s protective oils. This can cause micro-irritation, dryness, and pH imbalance—triggering itching even in people without diagnosed sensitivities.

Common Bases in Clean Soap

The base oils and liquids in your soap make all the difference in how it feels—and how it treats your skin.

  • Coconut Oil: A powerful cleanser that creates rich lather. Best when balanced with softer oils to prevent dryness.

  • Olive Oil: Exceptionally gentle and hydrating. Ideal for sensitive or compromised skin.

  • Shea Butter: Packed with fatty acids and vitamins. Adds creaminess and soothes dry, irritated areas.

  • Goat Milk: A nutrient-dense liquid base full of lactic acid, essential vitamins, and caprylic acid. It gently exfoliates, supports the skin barrier, and locks in moisture—making it a game-changer for dry or reactive skin types.

Why Goat Milk Soap Beats Competitors

Goat milk soap isn’t just a trend—it’s a skin-transforming upgrade backed by science and real-world results. What makes it different? It starts with the milk itself. Fresh goat milk is rich in lactic acid, a natural exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells without irritation. It also delivers vitamins B6, B12, A, and E, all essential for skin healing, hydration, and elasticity.

What really sets goat milk apart is caprylic acid, which supports the skin’s natural pH and barrier function. Combined with moisturizing oils like olive and coconut, it creates a creamy, non-stripping cleanse that leaves skin feeling nourished—not tight or dry.

Studies show that soaps enriched with natural lipids and lactic acid help repair the skin barrier, making goat milk an excellent choice for people with eczema, rosacea, or sun-damaged skin. And for chemo patients or anyone experiencing skin sensitivity, its gentle profile offers relief without relying on steroids or synthetic ingredients.

 Goat Milk Soap vs. Other Types of Soap

When it comes to performance, ingredients, and skin feel, not all soaps stack up equally. Here's how goat milk soap—especially the kind we craft at Legend’s Creek Farm—compares to other common options:

Type

Skin Feel

Ingredients

Effectiveness

Best For

Goat Milk Soap

Creamy, hydrating

Natural oils, fresh goat milk

Deep clean + moisturize

Dry, sensitive, aging, or reactive skin

Liquid Soap

Slippery, can be drying

Oils + potassium hydroxide + additives

Cleans well, but can strip

Oily or normal skin

Dove / Syndet Bars

Waxy, coating

Synthetic surfactants, moisturizers

Mild, but not truly clean

Fragrance lovers, basic routines

Hotel Soap

Dry, harsh

Tallow, synthetic scent, fillers

Bare minimum cleansing

Short-term use only

Dish Soap (used on skin)

Strips completely

Degreasers, SLS, preservatives

Too harsh for skin

Not recommended

Custom Goat Milk Soaps—Feel Better, Look Better

Our custom goat milk soaps at Legend’s Creek Farm are more than just cleansing bars—they’re functional skincare made with specific skin concerns in mind. Here’s a breakdown of our most popular formulations and their standout ingredients:

🍯 Oatmeal + Honey : Soothes irritation, locks moisture; great for eczema or post-sun skin.

🌲 Black Pine Tar : Deep-cleansing and anti-inflammatory, ideal for psoriasis and flaky skin.

🪵 Sandalwood Patchouli : Earthy and grounding with skin-calming properties.

🪻 Lavender : Naturally antibacterial and calming for inflamed or stressed-out skin.

🌰 Honey+Almond : Rich and sweet, great for normal to dry skin types.

Coffee Scrub : Invigorates circulation and gently exfoliates dull skin.

 🌊 Dead Sea Salt : Mineral-rich, detoxifying, and helpful for acne-prone skin.

🍒 Chamomile + Cherry Blossom : A delicate blend that comforts and softens.

🥀 Hydrangea Rose : Floral, hydrating, and beautifully aromatic.

 🌿 Eucalyptus : Refreshing, antimicrobial, and ideal for congestion or body breakouts.

Each bar is cold-processed or triple-milled, handcrafted with real goat milk, saponified oils, and never any fillers, synthetic dyes, or harsh preservatives—giving you cleaner ingredients, deeper hydration, and visible skin benefits.

Legend’s Creek Farm’s Goat Milk Soaps Set the Quality Standard

Most soaps are made to be cheap, fast, and long-lasting on a shelf—not nourishing for your skin. At Legend’s Creek Farm, we do it differently. Our goat milk soap starts with the real stuff: fresh, raw milk and pure oils that your skin can actually recognize and benefit from.

We don’t cut corners with powders, filler oils, or synthetic scent blends. Each bar is carefully crafted in small batches, cured for weeks—not hours—and formulated to leave your skin feeling balanced, not stripped.

It’s not just soap. It’s skin support in bar form—trusted by people with complex skin needs and loved by those who simply want something real.

Explore our Original or Triple-milled goat milk soaps—find the bar that treats your skin right! 

Everything your skin needs to feel great and nothing it doesn't.

Our line of all-natural goat milk products will help you find the perfect body and skin care routine, leaving you looking and feeling your best.

More articles